Safe, clean, neutral, everybody’s friendly. everybody speaks English – these are the qualities that set Switzerland apart. Takes you to every corner of the country – Geneva, Zurich, Zermatt, Bern, Lugano, the Engadine, plus the fascinating small towns such as Chur, Appenzell and Saas-Fee. Full color throughout plus 35 maps. Includes full information on where to stay for all budgets, based on personal visits by the author, the restaurants and foods, such as raclette, rosti and fondue, the history, the sights and how best to see them, shopping for porcelain, lace, chocolate, the traditional festivals. Like other Adventure Guides, this shows you how to experience the country more intensely and directly than most travelers know how to do – getting out of the tour bus, the taxi or the rental car and seeing the place close-up, through walks, bike rides, horseback excursions, culinary adventures, interacting with the people. The author, has lived and worked as a tour guide in Switzerland for over 20 years, spending a significant part of each year there.

people typically think of the Alps, Heidi, cheese, yodeling, chocolate and St. Bernards. Yet, this relatively small country – 15,941 square miles (41,290 square km) of land and inland water – offers much more than you might expect. Nestled in the heart of Europe, the Swiss Confederation (the country’s official title) is home to over 7.5 million people who speak four national languages, including their indigenous tongue, Romansh. The Latin name for Switzerland is “Confederatio Helvetica,” from which the abbreviation “CH” comes. You’ll notice the “CH” on many buildings, products, cars and on postal codes throughout Switzerland. For the first-time traveler, Switzerland is a dream come true. The country – which celebrated its 700th anniversary in 1991 – is clean, the local people and those in the tourism industry are helpful and courteous, and the public transport systems are unmatched anywhere in the world. Local roads and highways (autobahns) are extremely easy for the neophyte visitor to navigate. The experienced explorer can return time and again to this small, mountainous country and always find a new peak to ascend, another pass to hike, an isolated lake to swim or fish in, and another small village to investigate. In addition to the striking beauty of its Alpine scenery, Switzerland is Europe’s center for international banking and manufacture of quality goods. As well, Switzerland is home to a variety of unique customs and traditions. Nearly 68% of the population speaks German, 20% speaks French and about 10% speaks Italian. The ancient, traditional Swiss language of Romansh isspoken by a very few. Landlocked by Germany on the north, Austria and Liechtenstein on the east, Italy on the south and France on the West, Switzerland contains several glorious mountains that rise above 14,000 feet (4,300 m). In terms of land mass, it is slightly smaller than New Jersey. The three major regions of the country are divided by a series of mountainous belts that run northeast to southwest. This trio of regions – the Jura, the Swiss Plateau, and the Alps – all follow this directional pattern, and are altered only in certain spots by the rivers that run between mountains. While the largest area of the country is in the Rhine Basin, a small area in the south is drained by the Ticino, and in the southwest by the Rhône. Neutrality is another Swiss tradition, and one that is carried out through the country’s 26 cantons, each of which contains a local governmental unit. As one of the most advanced industrialized nations in the world, Switzerland also has the distinction of being one of the oldest democracies. The federal government, with its headquarters in the capital of Bern, has a somewhat restricted jurisdiction and limited powers. A Federal Council heads the executive branch of the government, and a president and vice-president are chosen from among the Council’s seven members. Both federal and cantonal court systems exist, and a Council of States is made up of 46 members – one or two members from each of the cantons. Election methods and office terms are decided by each canton individually. Switzerland offers the traveler a wide array of climates and settings. One morning you might be on top of the Klein (small) Matterhorn, observing Alpine peaks in a snug down ski jacket in the mountainous canton of Valais. The next afternoon you could be sipping a glass of wine under a palm tree on the banks of Lake Lugano in your swimsuit.

History Geography played a vital role in the history of the development of Switzerland. The brutal terrain provided a barrier of unity for the Swiss, and gave them independence from outside neighbors. Switzerland was once part of the mighty Roman Empire during the first century BC. A Celtic tribe known as the Helvetii was conquered by the Romans and continued to live under their protection, until the Germans invaded the area in the fifth century. The country eventually became part of the Holy Roman Empire again in the 11th century after a series of battles. In 1291 the three cantons of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden banded together and formed the Swiss Confederation – celebrating their independence from all other factions on August 1st of that year, which is still celebrated as the national independence day throughout Switzerland. During the centuries that followed, more cantons were added to the young country. Lucerne joined in 1332, Zürich in 1351, Glarus and Zug in 1352 and Bern in 1353 as territorial expansion accelerated. However, at times small wars would break out between the cantons, as each one struggled for military control and power. Cantons Fribourg and Solothurn were admitted to Switzerland in 1481, Basel and Schaffhausen in 1501, and Appenzell in 1513. As additional cantons were added, Switzerland’s economy flourished. Silkgoods, linens, wool and cottons experienced the greatest growth and, by the 18th century, Geneva had gained a reputation for clock production. Zürich became the center for literature and new ideas. Napoleon had a short stint of supervision over Switzerland in the late 1790s, which gave France the ability to recruit 14-15,000 men for his national army. After his demise, Switzerland was forced to develop a new constitution, which was christened the Pact of 1815, giving Swiss citizens freedom of religion, of movement, and freedom from occupation. The cantons of Valais, Neuchâtel and Geneva were officially established at this time as well. Since the mid-1800s, Switzerland’s history has remained fairly quiet, and the Swiss have remained unyielding in their commitment to neutrality, even as the European Union evolved and developed all around them. During both world wars, Switzerland was faced with hostile neighbors, and was able to maintain neutrality and become a center for international organizations, such as the Red Cross. Modern Switzerland has not been unscathed by 20th-century wars, however. In the mid-1990s the Swiss government was accused of selling weapons to the Nazis, and many people who had family members perish in the Holocaust filed lawsuits against Swiss banks, accusing them of illegally keeping money and other assets deposited by victims both before and during World War II. In 1998 several Swiss banks agreed to a $1.25 billion settlement, but the government did not opt to participate in the settlement. To this day, the Swiss remain adamantly opposed to joining the European Union. “Switzerland has had but one hero, William Tell, and he is a myth,” wrote English author and humorist Max Beerbohm. Legend never really says if Tell was a man or a myth, but you can find a statue of him in nearly every town, village and city in Switzerland. The Swiss see Tell as a symbol of independence and the love of liberty, which has characterized this tiny country for centuries.

Switzerland has long been known as one of the most prosperous countries in the world. Since the Middle Ages, commerce has been at the heart of the Swiss economy and due to the country’s neutral status, it also became an ideal place for banking and a safe haven for foreign investments. Besides banking and commerce, tourism is a major industry, with the visitors sometimes outnumbering the locals. These foreigners help to support hotels, restaurants, bars, and all forms of transportation. Internationally known resorts such as St. Moritz, Gstaad, Interlaken and Zermatt help to promote tourism with their year-round accessibility. The excellent railway system and highways, bridges, cable cars, funiculars and ski lifts make mountainous areas accessible that were not so a hundred years ago. Also, you can easily access Switzerland from Italy, France, Austria, and Germany on the passenger ships that ply lakes Geneva, Lugano and Constance. About 75% of Switzerland is used for various types of agriculture or forestry and, of this, only about 10% is used for crops, such as potatoes and grains. Vineyards encompass another small percentage, while about 40% of the land is used for grazing. Dairy farming is the most productive branch of agriculture, supporting the production of milk, cheese, butter, and chocolate. However, only about 4% of the Swiss labor force is involved in some type of agriculture. Engineering, textiles and chemical production are the leading manufacturing industries, utilizing about 20% of the Swiss labor force. Switzerland has almost no mineral fuels, and thus has to import about 80% of its energy needs. This affected the growth of many manufacturing plants, who had to wait for the country to develop its hydroelectric power. Engineering facilities are near Zürich and Basel primarily, while textile producers – second only to engineering plants – are found mostly in northeastern Switzerland. Switzerland was a founding member of the European Free Trade Association in 1960, but chose to stay out of the European Economic Community (EEC or Common Market) – later called the European Union (EU). The United States and Japan are Switzerland’s chief non-European trading partners. Swiss foreign trade consists of the exportation of engineering, chemical and textile products, while the top imports are agricultural products, machinery, transportation and construction equipment. A The Swiss currency is “Schweizerfranken” – Swiss Francs or Franken. CHF or SFr are often used to represent Swiss francs when written, as in 15SFr. One Swiss franc equals 100 “rappen.” When exchanging money it is best to go to a bank or currency exchange – hotel rates can be obscenely high. Exchange rates at the time of publication were 1SFr=US$0.73 or £0.46.

Languages “Unity through diversity” is the motto of the Swiss people, and loyalty to a specific canton, hometown or village tends to be strong. Diversity is accentuated by the four languages – German, French, Italian and Romansh, each of which has many regional dialects. Also, the German spoken by many Swiss is not “Hochdeutsch” or high German – the German taught in schools – but Swiss German or “Schweizerdeutsch.” Swiss German can sound completely different from canton to canton, and usually reflects the people and their society, changing as you travel from north to south or from east to west. Switzerland is predominantly German (74%), while 20% are French and just 4% are of Italian descent. Romansh and other nationalities account for the remaining 2%. In terms of religion, 48% are Roman Catholic and 44% Protestant. Education The cantons are responsible for education of children, most of whom attend public schools from ages five, six or seven until age 16. Private schools are very expensive, and many Swiss believe that a child only attends a private school if he can’t make it in a public school. The cantons vary on education levels and rules, which can prove difficult for parents who move to a new canton in the middle of a school year. For instance some cantons start to teach foreign languages in the fourth grade, while others start in the seventh. Public schools begin with Kindergarten, followed by Volksschule (elementary school), then Gymnasium (secondary school), and finally Universitäten (universities). After elementary school, children may choose to go to a middle school or they can begin an apprenticeship in a variety of trades – everything from cooking and banking, to farming and horsemanship. After finishing their apprenticeship it is then possible to continue an academic career at a secondary school or at a “Fachhochschule” (FH) – technical college. There are eight universities in Switzerland – six are run by cantons and two run by the federal government.

Northeastern Switzerland encompasses the cantons of Zürich, Schaffhausen, Thurgau, St. Gallen and the two Appenzeller (Ausserrhoden and Innerrhoden) half-cantons. It is a region known both for its sophistication (in Zürich) and for its ultra-traditional side (Appenzell). Since many visitors arrive in Zürich, at the main airport or train station, this can often be a good starting point from which to see the region, either via car or bahn (German for train). Except for the cities of Zürich and Appenzell, the region is often overlooked by foreign tourists. For instance, Canton Thurgau lacks the industrial development that plagues a good part of Canton Zürich. Here you find fruit groves, meadows and pastures that are great for relaxing walks or long hikes. The houses are half-timbered and many feature red beams that enrich the glow of stone walls. Canton Schaffhausen, which sits to the north of Zürich, often seems more a part of Germany than of Switzerland. With its picturesque villages along the Rhine River, Schaffhausen boasts one of Europe’s finest natural wonders – the spectacular Rhine Falls. It is also the home of some lovely vineyards. Farther east lies the canton of St. Gallen, with the half-cantons of the Appenzells firmly entrenched within it. These cantons offer more of the refreshing Swiss countryside – gently rolling hills, the clanging of cow bells from afar, and small farms dotted throughout the land. Here, you find men and women sporting traditional Appenzeller costumes of red vests, black pants and ornate embroidery work. Along the far eastern and northeastern edges of the area is Lake Constance or the Bodensee as it is known in German. With its gentle mountain slopes and crystal blue waters, relaxing shipboard excursions and walks are popular here. For a pleasant five- to seven-day trip through this region, we recommend using the city of Zürich as your base. If you’re driving or traveling by train, you’re only a short distance from most destinations here. After several days exploring Zürich, you can travel north (on Highway 1) and spend an afternoon in the artsy city of Winterthur, before heading north (along Highway 4) to Schaffhausen, where we suggest an overnight stay. You can then travel via secondary road or rail to Kreuzlingen, along the shores of Lake Constance for half a day, continuing onward to the lakeside village of Arbon. Better yet, take one of the many ship excursions available from Kreuzlingen. You can cross the lake and spend the rest of your day in Germany or simply sail on the lake, enjoying the tranquil waters and lovely scenery. From Kreuzlingen or Arbon you can head south to St. Gallen for another overnight stay and spend a day exploring this city and its surrounding villages. From here, it’s a short hop to Appenzeller land and Mt. Santis, where we suggest another overnight stay. Then travel west along Road 8 to Jona, a village on Lake Zürich. From there, you can take a ship back to Zürich.

Tourist Office This is directly underneath the city’s big clock tower, on Fronwagplatz 4, just one block east of the train station. Here, you can find excellent walking maps of the Old City, along with other information. Open Monday-Friday, 9 am-5 pm, Saturday, 10 am-4 pm, Sunday from 10 am-1 pm – July through September. From October through June it is open Monday-Friday, 9 am-5 pm, Saturday, 10 am-noon. % 52-625-5141, fax 52-625-5143, www.sh.ch. Train Station This is at the northwestern corner of the Altstadt. Here you can find a currency exchange (Monday-Saturday, 7 am-7 pm, Sunday, 9 am-7 pm). You can also rent bikes, store luggage or rent lockers here. Post Office The Schaffhausen Post Office is directly across from the train station, at Bahnhofstrasse 34. Open Monday-Friday, 7:30 am-6:30 pm, Saturday, 8 am-12:30 pm. CH-8200, Schaffhausen 1. % 52-632-6222, fax 52-624-0295. Codes The postal codes for Schaffhausen are CH-8200 to 8202, and the area code is 52. Getting Around One of the most fascinating ways to experience Schaffhausen is by boat. You can take trips up or down the Rhine from May through September, leaving from Freier Platz, at the southeast edge of the Schaffhausen Altstadt. This is also a great area for extended hikes along the river or through the nearby hills. The Schaffhausen Tourist Office can provide you with free maps of hiking and biking trails, and boat excursion information. Adventures On Foot No visit to Schaffhausen would be complete without a hike to the Rhinefalls. As Europe’s largest and most powerful waterfall, it falls from a height of 70 feet (21 m) and reaches its highest flow during the month of July. The scenery around the falls is spectacular, with green forests and mist that arises from the grassy river banks below. To get there, walk 1.8 miles (2.9 km) from Schaffhausen to Neuhausen city center, where signs will guide you to the falls, just a quick five-minute walk away. There are walking trails all around the falls, but in summer this area is overrun with tourists and souvenir vendors, so late fall or early spring are great alternatives. You can also take a boat ride (in June, July and August from 10 am-6 pm, and in May and September from 11 am-5 pm) to the rock in the middle of the stream near the falls. You can climb up the rock to gain an even more impressive view of the Rhinefalls. Contact Verkehrsverein at Industriestrasse 39, CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall. % 52-672-7455. Be sure to take in the nearby Schloss Laufen, which sits on a cliff directly above the falls on the south side. There are also paragliding and passenger flight tours over the Rhinefalls available from local vendors. If you’re into river rafting, then contact Rhein Travel, Schlauchbootfahrten, CH-8455 Rudlingen. % 01-867-0638. An Excursion to the Vineyards of Klettgau Only a few minutes away by car lies the famous wine-growing region of Klettgau. Its green rolling hills make this area ideal for bike tours and hiking. What about a carriage ride through the heart-warming vineyards, followed by a wine-tasting party? On Water For a lovely boat trip, board one of the many ferries in Schaffhausen for a trip to Stein am Rhein. Contact the Schweizerische Schifartsgesellschaft Untersee und Rhein from April through October. CH-8202 Schaffhausen. % 52-625-4282. If you are a bit more of a daredevil, than catch up with Rhyfall-Mändli, a local operator of speedboat rides that take you right up to the Rhinefalls. These are very popular and reservations are highly recommended. Open June to August from 10 am-6 pm, and in May and September from 11 am-5 pm. Cost is 65Sfr. % 52-672-4811.

Walking through Schaffhausen’s Altstadt – which is at the foot of the Munot battlements – you find historical architecture dating back to the Middle Ages. The Munot fortress itself dates from 1564 (it was built after writer Albrecht Dürer published a book in 1527 in Nürnberg describing such a place) and has a covered footbridge across a moat, a tower, a spiral ramp inside (one of only three in Europe) and a circular viewing platform. Admission is free to the Munot, which is open daily from May to September, 9 am-8 pm, and from October to April, 10 am-5 pm. Fronwagplatz is the city center’s long square, and here sit two distinguished medieval fountains – the Metzgerbrunnen and the Mohrenbrunnen. The former was built in 1524 and the statue that sits atop it is of a Swiss mercenary, while the latter was built 11 years later in 1535 and features a Moorish king. Churches Münster zu Allerheiligen, or Cathedral of All Saints, is one of the highlights of the Altstadt, dating back to 1049 (the original building was later replaced with the current structure in 1103). The Romanesque church tower and the adjoining Gothic cloister (the largest in Switzerland) are open Tuesday-Sunday from 10 am-noon, 2-5 pm. Outside of the cathedral wall is the circular path around the Junkernfriedhof (nobleman’s cemetery). In the courtyard is the 1486 Schiller Bell. Legend has it that this gigantic ringer inspired German poet Friedrich Schiller to write his Song of the Clock. However, Schiller never was in or even near Schaffhausen, leaving one to ponder why his name was connected to the bell in the first place. Landmarks & Historic Sites The Zum Ochsen House (at Vorstadt 17) features a striking Renaissance fresco, along with a five-paneled dormer window. Formerly a Gothic inn, the building was remodeled in 1608. The panels pay tribute to the five senses and show a woman holding a cake, a flower, a glove, a mirror and a medieval stringed instrument. Walk north from the Zum Ochsen House, past the Zum Grossen Kafig House (at Vorstadt 43) to the Schwabentor – the northern gate of the city. This tower was built in 1370, and during renovations in 1933 a plaque was added that shows a boy holding a pig under his arm while trying to avoid traffic, and the inscription: “Lappi tue d’Augen uf,” which means “Silly people keep your eyes open.” This was in reference to the traffic that had become heavy during those years as Schaffhausen grew into a more industrialized city. The Haus zum Ritter dates from 1485. The façade was painted by Tobias Stimmler in 1568-70, but was heavily damaged and was removed in 1935. The current façade is a replacement from 1943.

Introduction 1 The Land 7 Government 10 The Economy 12 The People 13 Food 14 The Adventures 15 Travel on a Budget 18 Places You Must See 26 Zürich & Northeastern Switzerland 35 Canton Zürich (ZH) 38 Stadt Zürich 38 Canton Schaffhausen (SH) 57 Schaffhausen 58 Canton Thurgau (TG) 65 Frauenfeld 66 Kreuzlingen 69 Canton St. Gallen (SG) 73 Stadt Sankt Gallen 73 Rorschach 79 Bad Ragaz 84 The Toggenburg Valley 87 Walenstadt & the Churfirsten 88 Rapperswil 90 Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden (AR) 91 Heiden 92 Herisau 96 Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden (AI) 97 Appenzell 98 Canton Graubünden (GR) 111 Chur 114 Flims 120 Arosa 125 Davos 135 Klosters 145 St. Moritz 153 Pontresina 173 The Berninastrasse & Poschiavo Valley 175 Silvaplana 176 Sils 178 Maloja 180 Samedan & Celerina 182 Zuoz 184 S-Chanf 185 Guarda 186 Switzerland’s National Park 186 Staying Overnight in the Park 190 Schuls 191 The Val Müstair Region 192 Tschierv 192 Fuldera 193 Sta. Maria im Münstertal 194 Müstair 195 Southwestern Graubünden 197 Western Graubünden & the Oberalp Pass Road 201 Central Switzerland 205 Canton Lucerne (LU) 206 Lucerne 206 Canton Zug (ZG) 221 The City of Zug 222 Baar 229 Cham 230 Menzingen 232 Oberägeri 232 Risch-Rotkreuz 233 Canton Schwyz (SZ) 233 Schwyz 234 Goldau 241 Brunnen 244 Einsiedeln 248 Rigi 251 Canton Glarus (GL) 255 Glarus 256 Braunwald 259 Elm 261 Filzbach & the Kerenzerberg Range 263 Urnerboden 265 Canton Uri (UR) 267 Altdorf 268 Amsteg 273 Andermatt 278 Canton Nidwalden (NW) 283 Stans 284 Canton Obwalden (OW) 285 Sarnen 286 Alpnachstad & the Alpnach Region 290 The Sachseln Region 293 Engelberg 295 Northern Switzerland 301 Canton Basel-Stadt (BS) 302 Basel 302 Canton Basel-Land (BL) 311 Liestal 311 Canton Jura (JU) 316 Delémont 317 Saignelégier 321 Canton Solothurn (SO) 323 Solothurn 324 Olten 329 Canton Aargau (AG) 330 Aarau 330 Canton Bern (BE) 335 The Bernese Mittelland 336 Bern 336 Langnau im Emmental 351 Biel-Bienne 352 The Bernese Oberland: Western Region 355 Thun 355 Spiez 358 Zweisimmen 360 Gstaad 360 Lenk 367 Frutigen 370 Adelboden 370 Kandersteg 375 The Bernese Oberland: Eastern Region 379 Interlaken 379 Brienz 387 Lauterbrunnen 388 Mürren 390 Wengen 394 Grindelwald 396 Meiringen 404 Lake Geneva & Western Switzerland 409 Canton Geneva (GE) 410 Geneva 412 Canton Vaud (VD) 427 Central & Eastern Vaud 428 Lausanne 428 Montreux 437 Vevey 444 Château d’Oex 447 Les Diablerets 450 Western Vaud 452 Morges 452 La Sarraz 454 Vallorbe 455 Northern Vaud 456 Yverdon-les-Bains 456 Avenches 460 Canton Neuchâtel (NE) 461 Neuchâtel 462 La Chaux-de-Fonds 470 Le Locle 474 Les Ponts-de-Martel 475 La Sagne 476 Travers 476 Môtiers 476 Le Bémont 477 Canton Fribourg (FR) 477 Fribourg 477 Murten 482 Gruyères 486 Southern Switzerland 491 Canton Valais (VS) 492 Sion 492 Brig 497 Martigny 501 Verbier 505 Zermatt 509 Saas-Fee 525 Leukerbad 530 Canton Ticino (TI) 531 The Sottoceneri Region 533 Lugano 533 Other Sites in the Sottoceneri Region 544 The Sopraceneri Region 544 Bellinzona 544 Locarno 548 Ascona Index 557 Suggested Reading 565